Louis Vuitton at the Papal Palace
Ghesquière presents the Cruise 2026 collection with an unprecedented artistic and historical touch.
Nicolas Ghesquière isn't one to stick to a single theme or concept. When he presents a collection in a remote and highly private location (as is typical for luxury cruise shows), he doesn't usually do so with a focus on a personal style, character, or time period. His clothes are appropriate for the setting, but they don't look like they've been plucked from a history book. Ghesquière's collections for Louis Vuitton are typically characterized by precision and depth rather than mere modernity or innovation, and the Cruise 2026 collection was no exception.
Louis Vuitton and Ghesquière held the fashion show inside the Palais des Papes, a 14th-century palace and papal residence in Avignon, France. This historic venue hosted six papal conclaves between 1334 and 1394. The timing was remarkably appropriate, especially just weeks after Pope Leo XIV was elected to lead the Church, and with Conclave-themed memes still circulating: "Scarlet robes! White smoke! Big hats!" Religious aside, the world loves extravagant displays, celebrations, and spectacle, especially when things are going wrong—a notion that aligns with Ghesquière's vision for Cruise 2026. The collection, according to the show notes, "explores the performative aspects of clothing, its inherent artistic value, its narrative power, and the emotional energy it unleashes."
It was also fitting that Louis Vuitton's show took place in the courtyard of the Palais des Papes, as it is the central location for the city's renowned theater festival, which officially begins next July. The stage was illuminated and decorated with rows of what looked like wooden and red velvet altar chairs, and the space was surrounded by empty, multi-level theater seats. The soundtrack blended what sounded like a church choir with French horns, galloping horses, and later, rural sounds like birdsong.