In the past, Fear of God designer Jerry Lorenzo numbered his collections—his last, released in late 2020, was the Seventh Collection—but this time he broke with that tradition
and instead decided to title it: the Eternal Collection. If that has a
certain gravitas, that’s exactly what he had in mind.
“For everything we design,” the designer told Vogue
from his Los Angeles studio last week, “we are chasing a feeling of
perpetuity and timelessness.” (Fashion conspiracy theorists, take note:
the designer had a Louis Vuitton tome sitting on his desk.) Designed
during the pandemic, this collection was crafted almost entirely in
Italy; the textiles and artisanship Lorenzo encountered there made him
consider what kind of pieces would be worthy of such skill. “We have
access to better fabrications, and construction, and the hand of
everything felt so long-lasting,” he said. “Those were the guardrails we
were playing within, and we kept asking ourselves, Does this feel eternal?”
For
Lorenzo this meant two things. First, he thought about which garments
had remained central components of a man’s wardrobe over the years.
Secondly, he whittled things down to their essence—silhouette, fabric,
color, and construction. Anything extraneous was jettisoned. He pulled a
double-breasted suit jacket from the rack, and showed how it had been
reduced to its key components: a shoulder pad, a notch lapel, two
buttons. The front pockets, once visible, were hidden on the side seam.
Its simplicity allowed you to focus on its core elements, most of all
the way the matte fabric draped and tapered gently from its powerful
shoulder line. It was almost like looking at a sketch of a jacket,
rather than the jacket itself.
Regarding
that first point, Lorenzo did a lot of thinking about items that have
an everlasting quality—a Russell sweatshirt, a pair of Levi’s jeans, a
Dickies jacket—and set out to capture that same spirit. So there is,
indeed, a marled gray sweatshirt made in his signature cut, wide with
dropped shoulders. An inky navy jacket in a boxy shape and matching
straight-leg trousers are his version of luxury workwear with an echo of
blue collar grit. The denim has a patinated, faded coloring and louche
drape typically found in suit trousers (sweats and denim were made
locally, in Los Angeles).
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