Paris Bows to the Last Emperor
Farewell to the "Last Emperor": Alessandro Michele Dazzles Paris in a
Tribute to Valentino Garavani
In a moment where nostalgia mingled with the brilliance of creativity,
Valentino's show unfolded at the Paris Tennis Club, carried on the
legacy of the house's founder, Valentino Garavani, who passed away a few
days prior at the age of 93
The show opened with a documentary in which Garavani described himself
as a "dreamer," a quality embodied by his successor, Alessandro Michele,
in a show that will long remain etched in the annals of fashion.
The Kaiserpanorama Scenography: An Eye on Beauty
Michele transformed the show into an unprecedented visual experience,
utilizing the Kaiserpanorama (a holographic projection device from
1890). The audience was positioned behind white walls punctuated by
small openings, peeping at the models who appeared as if they had
stepped out of a vintage film.
The scene: Sharp white neon lighting focused on the details, and rooms
dimmed as one model left and another entered, lending each piece the
aura of a masterpiece.
A journey through time: From Poirier to Greta Garbo
Michele showcased his theatrical instincts in fashion design,
transcending the boundaries of traditional seasons:
The 1940s: Trapunto-tailored skirt suits in dusty pink.
The Classical Era: Black velvet dresses reminiscent of Paul Poirier's
era (1910), and cream satin gowns with embroidered capes worthy of Greta
Garbo in Mata Hari.
Victorian drama: Kaftans ablaze with gold sequins, and tiaras of
soaring feathers that seemed to touch the sky.
The Finale: The Undying Red
When the "spy show" ended and the models walked the runway for the
finale, the opening piece encapsulated the story: an 80s-inspired draped
gown with a plunging neckline and wide batwing sleeves. It wasn't just a
dress; it was a striking tribute in the iconic Valentino red, a
declaration by Michele that the founder's spirit would live on, dreamy
and rebellious in every stitch.
