Let's find out the main reason why customers are attracted to Chinese stores

Let's find out the main reason why customers are attracted to Chinese stores

Young fashion retailers, such as the Chinese concept store ENG, are managing to attract customers worldwide despite the difficult economic situation. They offer a product range and shopping experience that is not only attractive to local customers, but also has its finger on the pulse internationally.

In the bricks-and-mortar retail sector of China, conceptual stores and young brands create a special shopping experience. In addition to a range of trend-setting labels - from GmbH to Juun.J - visitors are attracted by huge installations and innovative shop design, turning them into loyal customers. Meanwhile, the avant-garde brand mix with international brands such as Rick Owens and exciting local discoveries also attracts customers worldwide.

The ENG concept store began with one shop opened shortly before the pandemic, and is now represented in the ‘most important cities’ in China. It is defying China's faltering economic growth, with luxury groups such as LVMH and Kering even feeling the effects of subdued consumer spending. On November 11, the upcoming Singles' Day, which is considered the biggest online shopping day and attracts shoppers with offers and exclusive collections, is an important indicator of demand in this sector.

In this interview, buying director Laura Darmon looks ahead to the upcoming shopping event, provides insights into trends that inspire Chinese consumers and how ENG is dealing with the economic developments. She has been with ENG since October 2020 and previously worked for the Chinese brand Didu in business development and wholesale as well as for the French concept store L'Insane.

What did you take away from the SS25 season?

I found this season to be much cleaner and more refreshing, with each brand focusing on their core strengths. It can be challenging to resist external trends when building a collection, but I felt that SS25 emphasised core garments over fleeting trends, which I really appreciate.

We're also moving away from logo mania, which is a welcome change after seeing it dominate for so long. I’m excited about oversized pieces as well as well-tailored options featuring good patterns and comfortable fabrics that prioritise everyday wear.

Which fashion weeks and trade fairs did you attend?

I usually go mostly to Milan and Paris, but recently, I’ve started attending London Fashion Week as well, and of course, Shanghai Fashion Week.

In terms of trade fairs, this season in China, Collective 6 made a strong impression by teaming up with On Time, one of the largest trade shows in Shanghai. Collective 6 is an independent group of six to seven top emerging designers—including Didu, Yueqiqi, Ximon Lee, Untitlab, and Karmuel Young—who are standing together to challenge the traditional wholesale system. It’s an exciting movement.

Did one event stand out in particular?

I liked the Ximon Lee runway show hosted by Collective HEIM, which I have a personal affection for. The simple setup emphasised the garments, with an elevated stage that brought the audience close, reminiscent of the old Margiela shows. This design allowed the focus to be entirely on the clothing, minimising distractions from the surrounding environment.

Have you discovered any new brands that you would like to include in your portfolio?

I really liked Hodakova this season; it was stronger than before. After winning the LVMH prize, they’ve likely improved their craftsmanship and overall quality.

While not a new discovery, I feel that Our Legacy aligns perfectly with what the Chinese audience desires today. It’s a brand that offers designs I personally like a lot.

Which pieces are currently doing well at ENG?

It can be challenging to scale because we represent various brands, each with unique category strengths and design elements. However, knitwear, jersey, denim are strong areas for us. Currently, pants, tops, pullovers and polos are performing well, and we're seeing a positive trend in jackets as the weather gets colder.