The return of the Phoenix in Schiaparelli's Fall/Winter 24 haute couture collection

The return of the Phoenix in Schiaparelli's Fall/Winter 24 haute couture collection

A phoenix first must burn.

In Schiaparelli’s Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2024 Collection, “The Phoenix,” creative director Daniel Roseberry is inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s ability to ceaselessly reinvent herself, as well as fashion itself. “But it’s also something else: a way for me to honor that relationship, one of the most intimate ones in the world—the one in which I give women the power to be reborn, again and again and again,” states Daniel Roseberry in the collection’s notes.

Throughout the collection, the very idea of the Phoenix is reborn again, and again. The opener with Phoenix-wing-shaped shoulders adorned with a 3D chrome trompe l’oeil feathers embroidery exudes the typical image of a Phoenix, complemented by egg earrings in shiny silver palladium.

Yet, the black cape of the closed-off bird spreads to a long draped dress in black-washed silk with Phoenix-wing-shaped shoulders and an impossible V neckline.

Near the finale, a tulle skirt with aerodynamic volume seems to be lit from within, entirely embroidered with sequins and shiny silver Egg crystals. The jacket in satin is paired with a Black crinoline veil and a headpiece topped with feathers.

Through the closer, a corset bustier in nude organza with sequins slowly dispersing into black fringes and then finishing into a long black velvet skirt, the process of rebirth starts again.